How to Sew Lined Panel Drapes with Button Accents

And again it has been a long time since I have sat down to write anything.  As you can tell from this post I am detouring again from talking about food.  My blog is definitely going to be all over the place (because if you know me, then you know I’m all over the place), but the main theme is probably going to me more about crafty stuff since that is typically what I enjoy doing the most.  Today I’m going to show you some lined panel drapes I made for Maddox’s room and also show you how I made them in case you want to do some like mine.  Before I get started I am assuming you have basic sewing machine knowledge.  And when I say basic I mean very basic because that is all the knowledge that I have.  The harder stuff (sewing buttonholes and buttons) I am going to include in the tutorial.  Before you read my tutorial though you need to go read this one because I am actually picking up at the end of hers.  This tutorial explains to you how to make the basic panels.  When cutting your fabric you do need to add 16 inches to your panel instead of the 10 she says.  The reason for this is that we are actually making a casing to put the rod through instead of using clips.  Once you use her tutorial and get to step 13 come back here.  You don’t want to do her last 2 steps because we are not hemming up the top like she did.

Step 1: Measure 4 inches from the lining of the panel.  I chose to do it this way because my fabric that was cut for me was not actually even and I knew I wanted 4 inches for the final hem.

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I made several marks so that I could see where to fold up the hem at each point.

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Step 2: Fold up hem, press with an iron, and sew across (sorry, not picture here).

Step 3: Fold again this time giving yourself 4 inches.  (In the picture I used 5 because I cut my fabric one inch too long, but you should use 4).

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Step 4: Press the seam.  Here is a hint:  Actually press down on the seam, don’t iron it all the way across.  If you just press down on it instead of sliding the iron across it will keep your fabric straighter.  Don’t sew across yet.

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Step 5: Unfold and on the back measure how long your liner is.  Mine is 36 inches so I spaced my buttons 6 inches apart (this gave me 7 buttons total per panel because I had a button on the edge of each panel and then 5 in between).  Measure every 6 inches and make a mark with a fabric pencil.  Your marks do not have to be lined up straight just yet, we will do that in the next step.

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Step 6: However far you want your buttonhole from the top is how far you need to measure from the ironed seam.  I wanted my buttonhole one inch from the top so that is how far I measured.  Remember the marks you made in the last step?  Make sure your one inch marks lines up with those and make a bigger mark so you know this is the true spot for your button.  Hopefully that makes sense.

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Step 7: Put a pin through each one of your marks.  This will show you where to start your buttonhole on the front.  The reason I did it this way was because I have trouble getting marks off the front of my fabric so I did not want to mark it up on the front.

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See the pin on the front? We will need that in just a moment.

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Step 8: Attach your buttonhole foot (mine might look different than yours).

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Step 9: Line up the pin so it is the middle of your buttonhole foot.  You can see my buttonhole has 7 markings on it.  Those are each 1/8 of an inch so the biggest buttonhole it will make is 7/8 inch.  My buttons were 7/8 inch buttons so that is why I started all the way at the back.

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Step 10: Set your stitch length somewhere between 0-1.  I set mine just barely above 0. Your width should be at 5.  Now put your pattern selector on step 1 and sew straight down.

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When you get to the bottom make sure you have the needle out and put your selector on step 2 (this sew a zig zag stitch to make the bottom of your buttonhole). Sew 4-6 stitches.

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Raise the needle out of the fabric and put your selector on step 3 and sew up to the top.

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Raise the needle up out of the fabric and put the dial back to step 4 and sew 4-6 stitches at the top.

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This is what your final buttonhole should look like.  Mine is actually orange but I forgot to take a picture so here it is in white :).

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Step 11: Replace your buttonhole foot with your button foot and darning plate.

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Step 11: Put your fabric under and line up your button on top of the buttonhole.  As you can tell we are just making fake buttonholes.  I wasn’t going to actually use the buttonhole to support the fabric weight so I just decided to sew the button on the top instead. Much easier.

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Step 11:  From here it might be easier to follow your machines manual with how to sew on the button, but for my machine what I did was set my stitch length to 0 and stitch width to zero and sewed 3-4 straight stitches into the the left hole.  After I did that played around with the width of the zig zag stitch (mine ended up being set at 4) and I sewed 6-7 zig zag stitches back and forth between the two holes and then I went back to a width of zero and put 2-3 more straight stitches in.  Continue with this for all of your buttons.

Step 12: Remember that hem we ironed before?  Now it’s time to fold it over and sew it up.  Ta Da!!  You now have pretty buttons on the casing :).

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Step back and enjoy your final project and give yourself a pat on the back!

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If you have extra fabric left over like I did then you could also make some matching pillows.  Here is a great tutorial for how to sew an envelope pillow cover.  The only thing I did different was sew the buttons on the top piece before sewing the back and front together.

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